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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.